Skin exposure to acute or repetitive ultraviolet light induces major skin risks, an efficient photoprotection is thus required for both UVB and UVA radiation. The aim of this work is to formulate and evaluate oleogels as cosmetic bases containing 2% w/w of the liposoluble sunscreening agent Bemotrizinol aiming to obtain an effective photoprotective, photostable and water resistant product thereby increasing patient compliance. A factorial design (3.23) was adopted to study the effect of four independent variables namely; gelling agent type and concentration, stabilizer type and concentration on thermostability and rheological properties of the prepared oleogels using Design-Expert® software. The selected Bemotrizinol oleogel formulae were further evaluated regarding in-vitro SPF, ex-vivo permeation, photostability and water resistant tests. Both type and concentration of the gelling agent affected the stability and rheological characteristics of the different prepared oleogels. The two optimized oleogels F8 and F12 showed convenient SPF values of 13.25±0.03 and 16.85±2.75 respectively, low skin permeation (< 10% at Q8hrs) with 90-100% SPF retention after 80 minutes [min] immersion in water. Photostability test revealed a higher area under curve index (AUCI) of ≥ 0.80. Oleogels could be promising as cosmetic bases for the liposoluble sunscreening agent bemotrizinol useful in the prevention of skin sunburns and photoaging.
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